Thursday, May 29, 2008
CROSS PROTECTION BETWEEN VIRULENT Pseudomonas so Qnacearum AND THE IRRADIATED ONE BY GAMMA RAYS ON TOMATO PLANT.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
BugsIf you spot animals in your plants, kill them off with regular bug spray. Go to your local garden store and find a cure for the particular bug that can be used on fruit bearing plants. When you get bugs in the last few weeks of the flowering period, remember you will probably be smoking the stuff later on. You might even choose to just let the bugs be. After the harvest, clean out your room thoroughly. An alternative is using natural enemies of the bugs. See a specialist for this.
Nutrient problemsWhen during the early stages of growing the leafs of the plants turn weak and yellow or start showing yellow spots, try adjusting the dosage of nutrients. You might be seeing a shortage of nutrients, so adding some more to the water might do the trick. Don't overdo it!
When the plants have curled up leaves and look like they have been burnt, you might have given too much nutrients. Stop giving the nutrients for a while, but give some extra water to flush out the excess nutrients.
Remember that soil that has been used multiple times could need some extra nutrients and fresh soil probably needs less.
Rotting budsWhen you spot some rotting in your buds, you know the air is too moist and probably too cold. Try adjusting the airflow of the desk fan to reach the buds. Cut out the bad pieces of the rotting. If you don't, it will spread like a bonfire. Leaving dead leafs in the buds will increase the risk of rotting.
1. Feed the Soil You've heard it a thousand times, but do you do it? Start with great soil and you'll wind up with great plants. Healthy plants get less diseases, attract less insect pests and require less water. Plus you won't have to remember to fertilizer every other week.
Start with a good analysis of your existing soil. You can have all the essential nutrients tested or just the pH. Many nurseries provide this service as well as your local Cooperative Extension Service. If your soil is deficient in any minerals or nutrients, amend the soil according to recommendations. Then keep adding organic matter, like compost, regularly.
Slow release, organic fertilizers can help supplement deficient nutrients. But feeding plants with synthetic fertilizers can actually destroy the beneficial organisms and organic matter within soil and only provide a short fix. It's like turning your garden into a drug addict. It will need regular doses of fertilizer and more and more to get the same effect.
2. Group Plants by Their Needs I'm sure you've heard the saying "Right plant for the right spot." That's the beginning of the equation. Of course you're going to want to put sun lovers in the sun and ground covers where they can roam. But consider how efficient it would be if you put all your water hogs together so you could just turn on the sprinklers or drag the hose to one area and be done. The same goes for plants that require a lot of deadheading or vegetables that need to be harvested daily or hourly, like zucchini. You can still mix in different bloom times and variations in color, form and texture. It's just the heavy maintenance chores that should be consolidated.
3. Choose Lower Maintenance Perennials There will always be primadona plants you have to have (although probably less and less of them as you get older), but make the backbone of your garden perennial flowers that can take care of themselves. Plants like Astilbes and Sedums, that look good all season and don't need deadheading, pinching or staking. Here are even more low maintenance perennials.
4. Raised Beds & Containers It's much easier to control your garden if it has definite boundaries. Containers provide the ultimate in control. You control the soil, water, exposure and even limit the growth of the plants in the container. Raised beds separate the garden beds from their surroundings. Ideally, lift the beds up by 6 inches or more. You'll have the benefits of controlling your borders and you'll be saving your back from some bending.
5. Install Drip Irrigation This is one of those suggestions that sounds like it's going to cost a fortune and require a professional to install - and it can. But it doesn't have to. They've reduced drip irrigation to a tinker toy level. Believe me, if I can grasp it, so can you. There is an initial cost, although no where near what you might fear, and you will need to do some measuring. But unless you rely solely on rain to water your gardens, you will actually save money in the long run. Drip irrigation is far more efficient than any other type of watering. Plus it puts all the water right where your plants need it. Add an inexpensive timer and think of all the time you've saved yourself. Check out this FAQ on Irrigation Systems and Water Conservation over at About Landscaping
Monday, May 19, 2008
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
Young seedlings are pricked out into 0,5 l bags when 4 true leaves have developed, using a fynbos medium. Pinch out the growing tips of the seedlings to encourage bushy growth. Flowers are produced after two years. Cuttings have the advantage of producing a larger flowering plant quicker than seedlings. Tip cuttings, 50-70 mm, are taken from the current year's growth. Prepare cuttings by making a clean cut below the node and remove the third of the foliage. Dip the base of the cutting in a rooting hormone such as Seradix 2. Firmly place the cuttings in a medium of 50% bark and 50 % polystyrene. Ideally these cuttings should now be placed in an well-aerated propagation unit with a bottom heat of 24-degree Celsius. Rooting occur in 9 to 11 weeks. Carefully pot the rooted cuttings using a well-drained humus riched fynbos-potting medium (2 parts leafmould, 1 part coarse sand). Plants will be ready for planting in 7 to 8 months. Feed regularly with a well-balanced nutrient. Yellow leaves can be treated with an application of iron chelate. The genus Adenandra displays large showy flowers but is less scented than the other genera. There are 18 species found in this genus and endemic to the South-Western part of the Cape Province . Other interesting species Adenandra gummifera forms an upright single stemmed shrub and grows to a height of 0,4m to 1m. Bears white flowers with a pink reverse at the tips of branches. It is endemic to Bredasdorp and occurs on steep, sandstone slopes of Potberg. It grows in the same area as A.obtusata, but is found in the acid, sandstone locations whereas the latter prefers the limestone localities. Author; Norma Jodamus Kirstenbosch NBG
The bi-color red green Obake Anthurium hybrids are definitely Hawaiian in origin, with our Hilo growers producing some of the most outstanding cultivars in the world. The name, Obake, is the Japanese word for ghost and suggests the dramatic variations among hybrids in form, size, and color. If you're looking for a real exotic show stopper, this is the ideal choice.